Climbing in Morocco!

Mountime | 23 nov 2023 |

Taghia is a small Berber village nestled amidst the imposing mountain ranges of the Moroccan Atlas, about 200 kilometers east of Marrakech. The village lies along the banks of a stream that, along with secondary watercourses, has carved deep canyons, valleys, and, most notably, towering vertical walls that dazzle the eyes of every climber. Over the years, this remote corner has gained an irresistible reputation among adventure enthusiasts and rock climbers seeking perfect ascents.

For some time, Taghia had been one of the places that Francesco Nardelli, a Mountime guide, was determined to visit. Unfortunately, last year, just before departure, his climbing partner had to cancel, and Francesco had to follow suit. This year, as the summer season ended, the desire to undertake this journey resurfaced within him, and he immediately began the search for an adventure companion, eventually finding Aaron.

Right from the start, Aaron was enthusiastic, and a great rapport was established between the two, simplifying and expediting the essential organizational aspects crucial for success.

  

Finally, everything seemed set for Francesco to embark on the journey! The first hiccup (fortunately the only one!) occurred immediately after leaving Marrakech airport. Due to a misunderstanding with the local travel organizer, the agreed-upon taxi wasn’t available upon their arrival to take them to Zaouia Ahanesal (from where they would continue on foot with the help of a mule for their luggage to the village of Taghia). After waiting and attempting to contact the organizer several times, they decided to figure things out themselves. And so, the adventure officially began! Via buses, vans, and packed taxis, they slowly made their way towards Taghia. Quite slowly, indeed, as by evening, they were still only halfway there.

Upon reaching Ouaouizarht, they realized they couldn't continue that day. However, despite its rustic nature, the place was distinctive, and the locals proved incredibly helpful and hospitable. Communication became more challenging as they moved away from the capital, but somehow, their guides managed to make themselves understood by these villagers.

The next morning, they set off early towards Azilal. Upon reaching the town, their progress was once again hindered: the first minibus to Zaouia Ahanesal would depart only in the late afternoon, meaning they wouldn’t reach Taghia that day either. Disheartened, they sat in a park, waiting. But as Francesco says, "I am convinced that when embarking on such adventures with humility and the right spirit, things somehow always take the right turn." Indeed, in the park, they met Youssef, a mason who had worked in Pavia for 13 years. Surprised and amused to find Italians in that place, he immediately stepped in to help. Within minutes, they were in a taxi headed for Taghia. The driver, embracing our cause, decided to take them all the way to the gîte, traversing a rough road unsuitable for his taxi, which, to our surprise, had been extended this year to reach the village of Taghia.

   

The Taghia amphitheater offers a breathtaking palette of colors: the red rock interspersed with bands of violet and azure rocks and sands, the intense green of vegetation in the valley floor crossed by the stream, the clear blue sky, and the yellow of autumn leaves... a spectacle!

Franz and Aaron settled into Mohamed and his father Said's gîte, welcomed with steaming hot mint tea. The place, located at the trailheads leading to the cliffs, was simple but clean, equipped with everything they needed. Finally, it was time for climbing!

After the tea, our guides quickly prepared the gear and headed towards the nearby Ifrig wall for their first climb in Morocco! As an 'acclimatization' route and knowing they had limited daylight hours, they chose the classic "Belle et Berbere". The rock was extraordinary, and from the first moves, they knew they were in the right place, fully compensated for the fatigue of the journey. They reached the top as the sun was setting, and within minutes, darkness took over. At that moment, they realized that organization and logistics would be crucial in the coming days. Approaches and returns from these routes are demanding, the environment severe (as few are found in the Alpine arc these days), and here, one cannot rely on rescuers and helicopters.

Back at the gîte, harira soup was already hot and steaming on the table for them, followed by vegetable tajine and chicken with couscous, ending with fruit and mint tea. This menu accompanied them for the rest of the vacation... such goodness!

   

In the following days, they established an incredible routine! Hearty breakfasts, adventurous approaches, a sequence of pitches, each more beautiful than the last, on incredible rock, and highly alpine returns where they needed to remain focused, harira, tajine, and mint tea.

They always tried to choose routes on different walls and peaks to explore as much as possible. The choice of itineraries is extremely vast, and unfortunately, the time available is never enough!

Their rest day, necessary to regain energy and give their fingertips a break, was spent walking along the canyon and Berber trails, meeting Hassan, a Berber shepherd who lives a couple of hours from the village, alone with his 100 goats. He invited them to his home for tea and a chat in incredibly fluent Spanish. Berber hospitality always leaves one astonished!

Unfortunately, time flew for our guides, and on the departure day, they woke up to a light drizzle that had dampened most of the cliffs. It was time to pack up. The return was more comfortable and swift; they descended on foot accompanied by a mule loaded with their equipment, and this time, a taxi was indeed waiting for them!
The journey back was long. Upon arriving in Marrakech, they had just enough time for a quick visit to the medina and the market, to stock up on dried mint leaves for tea, before their return flight.

   

 For Franz and Aaron, it was a fantastic adventure! Traveling and living, even if only for a few days, in such realities makes one reflect and opens one's eyes to a world so different from ours, with all its negative sides perhaps, but certainly stimulating reflection on numerous aspects of our "normality".

Here are the routes recommended by the guides (there are many others, maybe more challenging, easier, more scenic... these are the ones we did and recommend):

• Belle et Berbere - Ifrig

• Entre dos Aguas – Tuyat

• Au nom de la reforme – Jbel Taujdad

• Tout pour le Club – Jbel Oujdad

• Baraka - Jbel Oujdad

• Les Riviers Pourpres – Jbel Taujdad

In addition to all the gear you wish to bring, it's recommended to have a bolt hanger and a nut (spit) "for emergencies" in your backpack because shepherds often steal them to equip trails for their goats. It can be inconvenient to arrive at a stop and find only the holes, quite an uncomfortable situation!

 

If you also want to be among the many to undertake this meticulous adventure, write to [email protected] or fill out the questionnaire on the site.

Happy adventures from Mountime!